Exploring Japanese Culture and History Through Stationery Store in Tokyo's Kagurazaka
This is the third installment in our series introducing the charm of Kagurazaka’s shopping district. This time, we had the opportunity to interview Naoya Nagatsuma, the 11th-generation owner and president of Soumaya Genshirou Shoten (hereafter, "Soumaya"), a historic stationery store in Tokyo's Kagurazaka.
Did you know that Soumaya has been in business for nearly 400 years? Established in the early Edo period (1603–1868), this is the oldest shop in Kagurazaka. Stepping inside, visitors can feel the weight of history while exploring a collection of high-quality stationery products that cater to modern needs. In particular, Soumaya’s extensive selection of traditional Japanese paper, which has been a staple since its founding, is a must-see.
A 400-Year Story: From the Edo Period to Today
Soumaya’s history dates back to the Edo period. The first-generation owner, Genshirou, was engaged in Washi (Japanese paper) production in Kanda River. The handmade paper was dried, stored, and sold in Kagurazaka. During the Edo period, the store supplied paper to samurai residences and temples, and later, after the Edo era ended, it became a thriving washi wholesaler, even supplying the Imperial Household Agency.
At the time, Tokyo’s waterways were essential for transportation. Heavy goods such as sake were shipped by boat, and paper was often placed in the gaps between sake barrels for transport. In Ageba-cho, at the base of Kagurazaka, Soumaya’s washi and Masumoto Sohonten’s sake (a liquor wholesaler established in the 1780s) were likely unloaded together. This deep historical connection between Soumaya and the geisha district of Kagurazaka remains evident to this day.
The Birth of "Genko-Yoshi" (Manuscript Paper)
During the Meiji period (1868–1912), Somaya became the first store in Japan to sell manuscript paper made from Western-style paper. Interestingly, this innovation was the result of an unexpected mistake—what we call "serendipity."
When the shop accidentally miscut some Western paper and was unsure what to do with the leftover sheets, Kōyō Ozaki, a novelist who lived nearby, suggested adding grid lines to the paper and selling it as manuscript paper. This simple idea led to instant success, and soon, famous literary figures such as Soseki Natsume, Hakushu Kitahara, Takuboku Ishikawa, and Tsubouchi Shoyo became regular users of Soumaya’s manuscript paper.
Soumaya Today
After World War II, Soumaya transitioned from a washi wholesaler to a stationery store, continuing its legacy of offering high-quality writing instruments and office supplies.
Japanese-made fountain pens and ballpoint pens are globally acclaimed, making them an excellent souvenir choice for foreign travelers. Interestingly, Zebra, one of Japan’s largest stationery brands, was founded in 1897 and has its headquarters in Higashi-Gokencho, Kagurazaka. As the first company in Japan to manufacture steel fountain pen nibs, Zebra shares a long-standing connection with Soumaya.
Popular Items Among Foreign Travelers
Somaya is beloved not only by Japanese customers but also by foreign travelers seeking unique, high-quality stationery.
1. Premium Writing Instruments
Japanese fountain pens and ballpoint pens are world-renowned for their quality and craftsmanship.
These make perfect gifts for stationery enthusiasts.
2. Over 100 Types of "Pochibukuro" (Mini Money Envelopes)
Beautifully designed Pochi-bukuro are ideal for small gifts or as a unique Japanese souvenir.
Soumaya’s selection is among the most extensive in Tokyo.
3. Chiyogami Paper & Character Goods
Traditional chiyogami (decorative washi paper) is available.
Special items include Pokemon and Ghibli character-themed UNO and playing cards, which are especially popular with international visitors.
Preserving the Joy of Writing in the Digital Age
In today’s world, where digital devices dominate, fewer people rely on handwritten communication, leading to the decline of stationery shops. However, many still find joy in the act of writing.
Owner Naoya Nagatsuma firmly believes that Japan’s "writing culture" will never disappear.
The Passion of the 11th-Generation Owner, Naoya Nagatsuma
As the 11th-generation owner, Nagatsuma continues to uphold the nearly 400-year-old legacy of Soumaya. Inspired by the values of the first-generation founder—honor and duty, he remains humble, acknowledging that his store’s success is not his alone but a result of long-standing relationships with the community and customers.
Nagatsuma hopes that more foreign travelers will visit his store and experience the beauty of Japanese stationery firsthand. Somaya is not just a place to buy products—it is a place where history, hospitality, and a deep connection to the local culture come together.
A Special Stationery Experience in Kagurazaka
Kagurazaka has long been a hub for Japanese literature, with many renowned authors having lived here. Some consider it the birthplace of modern Japanese literature (though others argue that honor belongs to Hongo).
For stationery lovers and those interested in Japanese culture, Soumaya is a must-visit destination. The store proudly displays original manuscript paper handwritten by literary masters, offering a glimpse into Japan’s literary heritage.
Whether you're searching for Pochi-bukuro, chiyogami paper, or a premium Japanese fountain pen, Somaya invites you to step into a world of timeless stationery. The shop’s historic atmosphere will transport you to a slower, more refined era, offering a moment of peace amidst the fast-paced modern world.
Conclusion
Soumaya is a one-of-a-kind stationery store where history and culture intertwine. Next time you stroll through Kagurazaka, be sure to stop by Soumaya and immerse yourself in the beauty of Japanese stationery.
For those who appreciate Japanese culture and craftsmanship, this store is an essential destination. The warm ambiance and thoughtful service will undoubtedly become a highlight of your journey in Japan.
Store Information: Soumaya Genshirou Shoten
Website: https://www.soumaya.co.jp/ Search "Kagurazaka Soumaya" online.
Address: Soumaya Building, 5-5 Kagurazaka, Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo, Japan
Hours: Monday–Saturday 10:00–18:00
Closed: Sunday & Holidays
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How to Access Kagurazaka
The Kagurazaka area is conveniently located within 30 minutes from any major station in Tokyo. This is because Kagurazaka is situated in the heart of Tokyo, at the center of the Yamanote Line. Please come and visit this convenient and charming Kagurazaka.
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