Exploring Kagurazaka Through the Eyes of Natsume Soseki, Famous for Works like I Am a Cat
The internationally renowned author Natsume Soseki (1867-1916) is famous for works like I Am a Cat and And Then. He often featured Kagurazaka, Tokyo, in his novels. One major reason for this was the presence of the popular "Yose theater" called Ushigome Waradana-tei, which was located between Zenkokuji Temple and Kagurazaka Ue along Jizo-zaka.
The Yose were traditional Japanese theaters where performances like Rakugo (comic storytelling) and Kodan (narrative storytelling) were held. Kodansha, the second-largest publishing company in Japan, also derives its name from 'Kodan,' reflecting the past popularity of Kodan performances. Today, only four Yose theaters remain in Tokyo: Shinjuku Suehiro-tei, Asakusa Engei Hall, Ikebukuro Engeijō, and Suzumoto Engeijō in Ueno.
Soseki had a great fondness for Rakugo and Kodan and frequently visited Waradana-tei. In his later years, Soseki lived just a 10-15 minute walk from Kagurazaka, at what is now the Shinjuku City Natsume Soseki Memorial Museum. Kagurazaka was the closest entertainment district to his home, and his novels describe dining in various restaurants there.
A Kodan Performance at Shimakin, Oldest Restaurant in Kagurazaka
On September 14, 2024, I had the opportunity to listen to a Kodan performance at Shimakin, an eel restaurant in Kagurazaka that opened in 1869, making it the oldest restaurant in the area. This restaurant was founded just two years after Soseki’s birth and even appears in his novels.
The Kodan at Shimakin was performed by Shorin Hakuchi, a Shin-Uchi (senior storyteller). The story featured was Aitaro's Revenge by Norihiko Yamaguchi, who is also a guide for walking tours around Kagurazaka. Shorin Hakuchi is from Mito, Ibaraki Prefecture, and since 'Aitaro' sought revenge in the Mito Domain, she was selected to perform for this event. Additionally, Shorin serves as an ambassador for Mito City.
Experience Kagurazaka: Geisha Banquets, Kodan, and Rich Cultural Heritage
At Shimakin, our company offers geisha banquet tours at this historic restaurant. The connection between Soseki, Yose theater (Kodan), Shimakin, and Kagurazaka made this event especially meaningful. After enjoying the Kodan and a delicious eel dish (Unaju), I reflected on the long history of Kagurazaka. Its rich tradition in literature and performance arts makes it a unique and atmospheric neighborhood to visit.
I highly recommend visiting Kagurazaka, where you can experience a variety of tours, including walking tours, izakaya hopping, geisha banquets, wagashi workshops, Zen meditation, Ukiyo-e studio, and kumihimo (traditional braiding) workshops. Kagurazaka is still relatively unknown to foreign tourists, making it a hidden gem worth exploring for those seeking something off the beaten path.
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How to Access Kagurazaka
The Kagurazaka area is conveniently located within 30 minutes from any major station in Tokyo. This is because Kagurazaka is situated in the heart of Tokyo, at the center of the Yamanote Line. Please come and visit this convenient and charming Kagurazaka.
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