The Kagurazaka Geisha District Recovered Earlier Than the Other Five Districts in Tokyo
This is the fourth installment in our Kagurazaka Shopping District Interview Series, featuring Ayumi Terada, the proprietress of Yukimoto, one of Kagurazaka’s most distinguished ryotei (traditional Japanese restaurants).
Founded in 1948, just after World War II, Yukimoto is celebrating its 77th anniversary this year. Ayumi Terada, the third-generation proprietress, inherited Yukimoto from her grandmother, the founder of the establishment. Kagurazaka, which had access to water transportation via the Outer Moat and the Kanda River, was able to revive its geisha district earlier than other geisha districts after the war.
Yukimoto features seven Sukiya-style private rooms, including a large banquet hall accommodating up to 40 guests. While guests can enjoy traditional kaiseki cuisine and a variety of experiences, hosting a geisha banquet remains one of the primary ways to enjoy Yukimoto. As the largest ryotei in Kagurazaka, one of Tokyo’s six remaining geisha districts, Yukimoto plays a central role in preserving this unique culture.
Experiencing the Geisha District’s Sensitivity to the Seasons
Terada emphasizes the importance of appreciating the geisha district’s distinctive way of expressing the seasons.
The geisha district is a tightly woven cultural community that includes geisha, ryotei, Kenban (geisha registries that also serve as training centers), Okiya (geisha houses), and traditional performing arts masters (such as shamisen and dance instructors). Within this world, the expression of seasonal beauty is highly valued in various aspects, including:
The kimono and hair accessories of the geisha, which change monthly
The seasonal themes of songs and dances performed
The seasonal ikebana (flower arrangements) displayed in the ryotei
The seasonal ingredients and presentation of traditional cuisine
Terada encourages guests to pay attention not only to the geisha’s elegant performances but also to the details of their kimono, hairpieces, and overall seasonal presentation.
At Yukimoto, the seasonal atmosphere is reflected in:
The hanging scrolls in the tokonoma (alcove)
The ikebana arrangements and vases
The kimono worn by the proprietress and attendants
The carefully selected seasonal ingredients in the cuisine
The Essence of Seasonal Cuisine at Yukimoto
Japanese cuisine places great importance on seasonality, which is divided into three phases:
"Hashiri" (early season) – The first appearance of a seasonal ingredient, considered auspicious
"Sakari" (peak season) – When the ingredient is at its best
"Nagori" (late season) – The final availability of the ingredient before it disappears
Among these, "Hashiri" (the first of the season) is particularly significant. For example, Fuki-no-tou (butterbur sprouts) typically reach their peak in February or March, but at Yukimoto, they are served as early as January to celebrate their arrival.
The Secret Behind the Exquisite Dashi (Japanese Broth)
At Yukimoto, dashi (broth) is the most carefully crafted element of the cuisine. While traditional Japanese dashi is typically made from katsuobushi (dried bonito flakes) and kombu (kelp), Yukimoto goes beyond the standard, incorporating:
Maguro-bushi (dried tuna flakes) for deeper umami
A combination of different Katsuo-bushi (dried bonito flakes) varieties – both with and without bloodlines – to create a perfectly balanced broth
This meticulous attention to detail is what elevates the flavors of Yukimoto’s cuisine.
Preserving Culture Through "Yukimoto-kai" and "Kagura Goyomi"
Yukimoto regularly hosts cultural events such as "Yukimoto-kai" and "Kagura Goyomi", aimed at preserving and promoting Japanese performing arts and the hanamachi culture.
"Yukimoto-kai" (The Yukimoto Gathering)
This event began 26 years ago as a way to support the local community during Japan’s long economic slowdown after the economic bubble burst. As guest numbers declined, so did opportunities for Kagurazaka’s geisha to showcase their artistry. Yukimoto-kai was established to support the geisha community and ensure the continuity of their performances.
"Kagura Goyomi"
This event, launched nearly a decade ago, brings together traditional Japanese performing arts and geisha performances in the same banquet hall. Various classical performing arts are invited to Yukimoto in 2024, including:
Hachioji Kuruma Ningyo (traditional puppetry)
Wazuma (Tezuma) – Japan’s traditional magic performance
Hokan-gei – The unique art of Taiko-mochi (traditional male entertainers, akin to jesters)
Terada humbly states, "I simply invite performances that I personally want to see." However, her commitment to revitalizing traditional Japanese culture is truly remarkable.
From the Stage to the Ryotei – The Unique Perspective of a Former Actress
Before becoming the proprietress of Yukimoto, Ayumi Terada had a career as an actress in Bungaku-za, one of Japan’s most prestigious theater companies. She debuted in the late 1980s and remains affiliated with the company, although she rarely performs these days.
Her background in acting gives her a deep understanding of the emotions and expressions of geisha performers. This is why she encourages guests to pay close attention to the grace of geisha movements, including:
The delicate positioning of their fingers
The elegance of their footwork
These refined gestures are the result of years of rigorous training. It is perhaps no coincidence that Yukimoto-kai and Kagura Goyomi were established by a family deeply rooted in the performing arts, as Terada’s father was also a theater actor.
An Unforgettable Experience at Yukimoto
Having visited Yukimoto several times myself, I have had the privilege of witnessing geisha performances up close.
Proprietress Ayumi Terada always greets guests with a warm smile and personally sees them off at the end of the evening. Her hospitality and attention to detail leave a lasting impression, encouraging many guests to return to Yukimoto again and again.
This experience is equally impactful for foreign travelers. Many international guests have shared how they were deeply moved by the geisha performances, the engaging conversations with the geisha, the exquisite cuisine, and the impeccable hospitality of Terada and her staff.
For many, this becomes the highlight of their trip to Japan—a once-in-a-lifetime memory that they will cherish forever.
Conclusion
Yukimoto is more than just a ryotei—it is a gateway to the world of Japan’s geisha culture.
Through seasonal aesthetics, exquisite cuisine, and the refined art of geisha, Yukimoto offers an unparalleled cultural experience in the heart of Kagurazaka.
Whether you are a lover of Japanese traditions, performing arts, or fine dining, a visit to Yukimoto is an essential experience that will deepen your appreciation of Japan’s living heritage.
Ryotei "Yukimoto" Information
Website: www.kagurazakayukimoto.jp Search "Kagurazaka Yukimoto" online.
Address: 4-7 Kagurazaka, Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo
Hours: Monday–Saturday 18:00–23:00 (On Saturdays, reservations are accepted for groups of five or more guests.)
Closed: Sunday & Holidays
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How to Access Kagurazaka
The Kagurazaka area is conveniently located within 30 minutes from any major station in Tokyo. This is because Kagurazaka is situated in the heart of Tokyo, at the center of the Yamanote Line. Please come and visit this convenient and charming Kagurazaka.
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