The "Iki" Colors of Edo: Creativity Within Constraints
Due to the sumptuary laws of the Edo shogunate, commoners' kimonos were strictly regulated not only in terms of "colors and patterns" but also "fabrics." The materials that commoners could wear were limited to "hemp" or "cotton," and the colors were restricted to "brown," "gray," and "indigo." However, the desire of commoners to wear something unique led artisans to experiment and create subtle variations within these colors. Consequently, this restriction gave rise to the "Iki" colors of Edo (Tokyo).
This creativity and the demand for fashionable attire among the commoners gave birth to the color palette known as "Shijuhattcha Hyakunezumi" (48 Browns 100 Grays, 四十八茶百鼠). These colors, though not flashy, represented a sophisticated and refined aspect of Japanese color culture. The terms "forty-eight" and "one hundred" don't refer to the exact number of colors but signify a wide variety of hues.
The Ingenious Palette: Unique Shades and the Spirit of "Iki"
Among these colors, numerous shades of brown and gray emerged, each with its unique name. For example, in the brown category, there is "Ki-cha" (yellow-brown) and "Shikou-cha" (named after the kabuki actor Ichikawa Danzo V). In the gray category, there is "Naniwa-nezu" (a light, subdued reddish-gray) and "Kon-nezu" (a dark gray with a hint of blue).
The ingenuity of the people of Edo, who created a wide variety of colors within the constraints of sumptuary laws, is truly impressive. The Edo Komon patterns introduced in the previous blog post are also a product of such creativity. The very spirit of ingenuity is "Iki," and the colors and patterns born from this ingenuity are quintessentially "Iki." Isn't it fascinating that the desire for fashion among the people of the Edo period was perhaps stronger than that of people today?
At Tomita Sen Kogei (Tokyo Some Monogatari Museum), founded in 1882, you can easily experience making Edo Komon by dyeing a tote bag. This hands-on dyeing experience is simple enough for children as young as elementary school age, making it perfect for families to create original tote bags with different patterns. Why not make a memorable summer experience by creating a tote bag you can use every day?
Next time, I will explain "Aizome" (indigo dye) and the history of dyers known as "Konya" (indigo dyers), who were loved by the people of the Edo period under the sumptuary laws, along with brown and gray colors.
This blog post offers a fascinating insight into the ingenuity and creativity of the people of the Edo period, highlighting how they expressed their individuality and sophistication within the constraints imposed upon them. The historical context, specific color examples, and hands-on experience opportunities make it an engaging read for anyone interested in traditional Japanese culture and aesthetics.
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